Day 6 (15 December 2010)
This day will bring us to Isabela and Fernandina Islands, all the way up north and west, crossing the equator twice: once in the night and once in the morning. As usual that's worth a little celebration :-) The northern part of Isabela has relatively cool waters and is therefore home to the Galapagos penguin and sea turtles. Not many people come here because it's rather remote. The Zodiac ride along the cliffs already made us feel aroused: lots of blue footed boobies, marine iguanas, crabs, penguins, sea turtles, the large Mola Mola fish, fur seals, sea lions, flightless Cormorants, etc etc.
After a short break we changed into our wet suits and then went snorkeling among all those wonderful creatures. Awesome! Really, really awesome! Swimming with all those turtles and playful sea-lions makes you feel exited and humble. This is their territory, they love it and they accept us in it. Isn't it a shame that most humans are so selfish and demand to be the centre of attention ... Nobody wanted to leave, but lunch was already waiting. Can things become any better? In the afternoon we sailed to Fernandina Island, one of most active volcanoes in the world (but not today).
We had a dry landing on an irregular lava flow at Punta Espinosa. There we could admire hundreds of marine iguanas with some of the males already in their mating season colors. But also the inevitable sea lions, next to flightless cormorants, Galapagos penguins and many other birds that now already look familiar.
Day 7 (16 December)
We sailed to the southern part of Isabela Island, where we had a long walk in the morning. We saw some colorful land iguanas and even saw the very shy Vermillion Flycather (it was 6 years ago our naturalist saw his last one!). This was a marine reef that in 1954 suddenly was uplifted, so now you can see large remains of coral in the middle of the land. After that we had a quick swim with a nosy pelican and went on board again for lunch. One of the naturalists had spotted a group of dolphins in the bay, so we rode to that spot. It took quite a while before they were spotted again, but then it was really great. We (or they?) came very close to the Zodiacs, and there was even a baby :-) During lunch we sailed to the most southern part of Isabela, between the Sierra Negra and Cerro Azul volcanoes. In the afternoon we did a Zodiac cruise along the coast line, where we saw four kinds of rays, which was really exiting.
Day 8 (17 December 2010, our 24th anniversary together)
It was a long and very rocky sail to the next destination, Floreana Island. First we had a pre-breakfast wet landing at Post Office Bay. There you can pick up postcards and letters people left for delivery by hand. No stamp required, just a friendly fellow countryman that takes it home and delivers it himself. So we left two postcards and took three with us that we will deliver in The Netherlands. This is a tradition that started in 1793, so we have to keep that in honor of course! The waves were still rocky, so we all became very wet in the Zodiacs, but after breakfast time for another ride at another spot: Champion. A little island, home to the only approximately 200 surviving Charles Mockingbirds. We saw them, and also some beautiful Tropic Birds (with their long white tails) and of course ... Sea lions ;-) back to the ship for our wetsuit and a snorkeling session with a lot of fish and the friendly and curious sea lions. The sea was a bit too rough for my taste, but still, I had a good time. Finally some time to check phone messages and e-mail. Always nice to know that it snows heavily back home, while we're enjoying the tropical weather :-) In the afternoon we did a hike at the island in the hope to see some flamingos. Well, there was one indeed, but only that one. It didn't really matter because the rest of the walk was nice, especially the quiet beach at the other end of the Isle where sea turtles lay there eggs at night. Some of them were already present. On our way back to the ship we witnessed a beautiful sunset.
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